Behind the Calyx™: From Milan Sketches to South Downs Trails to Goodhood Parties

When we first sketched the idea of a PMO footwear silhouette, we knew it had to be more than just a shoe. The Calyx™ would be our first step into a new space, an object that carried our values of exploration and design into every detail.

Milan — Where the Blueprint Began

The journey started in Milan, inside Vibram’s innovation lab, a space where the smell of raw rubber mixes with the hum of machinery. We immersed ourselves in the environment, surrounded by prototype moulds, technical drawings and racks of experimental compounds.

Early concepts were pulled apart and reimagined across long tables scattered with sketches and samples. We studied how Vibram’s StratX technology could be pushed beyond its usual applications, experimenting with new densities and finishes until the upper felt like something entirely its own.

Every stage demanded hands-on problem solving. We tested different rubber gauges to perfect the balance between structure and flexibility, worked late with Vibram’s engineers to fine-tune the seamless moulding process, and refined the sculptural lines that would give the Calyx™ its distinctive silhouette.

What emerged was a single-sheet rubber upper, moulded without a single stitch, an innovation that set the tone for everything that followed. In the heart of Milan’s design district, between espressos and late-night critiques, the Calyx™ began to take on its final form: a waterproof shell that felt equal parts technical equipment and modern sculpture.

The Calyx™ Camp Trip

Months later, when the first samples were ready, we took them into the wild. The Calyx™ Camp in the South Downs wasn’t just a field test; it was a celebration. We hiked, foraged and cooked under open skies, putting the prototypes through rain, mud and morning dew. Every stride confirmed what we’d built: a piece of footwear that belongs as much to the trail as to the city.

Each person who joined us was someone who had helped us since the start of PMO, so we wanted to give back and let them enjoy nature how it should be enjoyed. Off-grid. Each activity was based around what we loved; food. We foraged for herbs and mushrooms, cooked over an aside grill and spent time around the fire, enjoying each other’s company.

Goodhood — The First Step Outward

To mark the launch, we brought the Calyx™ home to London with an evening at Goodhood. Friends of the brand, collaborators and the wider community gathered as music and conversation filled the store. Seeing the Calyx™ on the feet of explorers, stylists and city dwellers alike closed the circle, from Milanese workshop tables to South Downs campfires to the heart of Shoreditch.

The Calyx™ is more than PMO’s debut shoe. It’s a statement of intent, a bridge between craft and terrain, design and discovery. And it’s only the beginning.

Keep up with what we’re creating next—follow @purple_mountain_observatory on Instagram for the latest stories, launches and behind-the-scenes moments.